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The Chemistry Behind Hair Dye and Lightening

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작성자 Lorena Langton
댓글 0건 조회 2회 작성일 25-09-23 20:52

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When you dye or bleach your hair, you’re not simply adding color—you’re engaging in a molecular-level restructuring of the hair shaft.


Human Hair Factory hair gets its color from two types of melanin: eumelanin, which produces brown and black tones, and pheomelanin, which contributes to red and yellow hues.


The combination and concentration of these pigments determine your natural hair color.


Hair color formulations are designed to either sit on top of the hair or penetrate and chemically modify its internal pigments.


Surface-level colorants, like temporary and semi-permanent dyes, cling to the outer cuticle and fade gradually with each wash.


Unlike temporary options, permanent colorants are engineered to penetrate deeply into the cuticle and cortex, where they undergo chemical reactions.


The interaction between dye molecules and hydrogen peroxide triggers a polymerization reaction, trapping the new color permanently inside the hair shaft.


Bleaching is a more aggressive process.


The bleaching formula relies on hydrogen peroxide activated by ammonia to open the hair and dissolve its natural color.


Peroxide swells the hair structure and chemically breaks melanin into harmless, transparent fragments.


While bleaching achieves dramatic lightening, it simultaneously strips essential lipids and proteins that keep hair resilient.


Each level of lightening increases porosity and fragility, making post-bleach conditioning not optional, but essential.


Maintaining the proper pH balance is essential for both processing and post-treatment hair health.


The cuticle of healthy hair is slightly acidic, around 4.5 to 5.5.


Most permanent hair color and bleach formulas are alkaline, with a pH around 8 to 9 or higher.


The raised pH causes the cuticle scales to lift, creating pathways for dyes and bleach to reach the cortex.


Post-treatment acidic rinses or conditioners are crucial to reseal the hair and prevent color fade and moisture loss.


Another factor is the porosity of the hair.


Damaged or processed hair has lifted cuticles and gaps in the cortex, making it a sponge for chemicals.


If porosity isn’t assessed, some sections may over-process while others remain under-treated.


A strand test is a standard practice to evaluate processing time, lift potential, and possible damage before committing to the full head.


Modern hair color formulations have improved significantly, incorporating conditioning agents like keratin, oils, and proteins to minimize damage.


Many premium formulas now feature vitamin E, green tea extract, or ubiquinone to neutralize free radicals created by peroxide.


No matter how advanced the formula, changing hair color always involves breaking molecular bonds and restructuring the hair’s core.


When you grasp the underlying chemistry, you gain the ability to anticipate outcomes and protect your hair effectively.


Whether you're dyeing your hair at home or visiting a salon, knowing how these treatments work can help you manage expectations, choose the right products, and take better care of your hair afterward.


Hair is not just a canvas—it's a living structure that responds to chemistry, and respecting that science leads to healthier, longer lasting results.

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