10 Tips For Getting The Most Value From Audi G28
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How to Replace an Audi tt key Fob G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video Charles the humble mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located at the edge of transmission, above the flywheel gear. It sends a signal to the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49), then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring. This sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control the boost, fuel, and timig. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference replacement key for audi a4 comparing with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can start spark and injectors according to the situation.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync, possibly indicating the chain is stretched or a jump link on the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't appear on its own, without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It can be a bit difficult to test because there are different pins on the connector and they all have different functions. The most effective method to test it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms when the sensor is in full operation. If you're having issues with this part, check for signs of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive decrease in power. It was as if the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked with gasoline and the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole and when I start the engine without sparks, the 3 that have gazoline pop right out. The 4th one stays closed. I tried to test the ground connections of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found 0ohm. I think the issue is in another location.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 plugged in. However, the intermittent misfire problem continues to occur at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when it is unplugged, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I may have missed something. If anyone has any ideas please let me know! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 receives a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and both are used in the 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a junkyard or Audi keys replacement from a parts store. It is simple to test them - just put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing upwards). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU of our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines needs to know both the speed and position of the crankshaft to determine timing of fuel injectors, etc. To accomplish this, it uses a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you are experiencing issues with either one of these, the diagnostic scanner will display the codes that could trigger an engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate speed counter for your gearbox, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, or a misfire in the gear. It is likely that the sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. The good news is that they are very affordable and easily accessible particularly in the case of an Bosch model, which is what we have. Alternately, GM's version this component is an excellent choice.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a number of problems within your vehicle. It is a crucial part of your audi key fob not working's transmission, since it relays information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's crankshaft is rotating. If this sensor fails, it could affect the performance of the transmission and the rest of the car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is situated on the outside of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 via a grey wire. The ECU is then able to process this signal to regulate the flow of fuel, timig and boost as well as transmitting it to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for failure by examining the continuity between it and the tachometer. You can also check continuity between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between pin T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is the same across the audi a1 key fob 80-100-200-RS2 series, starting from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS An and 1995 RS2 Du, so you might find good ones in wrecking yards.
In this video Charles the humble mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located at the edge of transmission, above the flywheel gear. It sends a signal to the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49), then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.1. Engine Speed SensorThe grey wire is situated on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring. This sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control the boost, fuel, and timig. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference replacement key for audi a4 comparing with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can start spark and injectors according to the situation.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync, possibly indicating the chain is stretched or a jump link on the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't appear on its own, without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It can be a bit difficult to test because there are different pins on the connector and they all have different functions. The most effective method to test it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms when the sensor is in full operation. If you're having issues with this part, check for signs of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive decrease in power. It was as if the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors were not firing. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked with gasoline and the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole and when I start the engine without sparks, the 3 that have gazoline pop right out. The 4th one stays closed. I tried to test the ground connections of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found 0ohm. I think the issue is in another location.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 plugged in. However, the intermittent misfire problem continues to occur at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when it is unplugged, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I may have missed something. If anyone has any ideas please let me know! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 receives a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and both are used in the 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a junkyard or Audi keys replacement from a parts store. It is simple to test them - just put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector end facing upwards). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU of our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines needs to know both the speed and position of the crankshaft to determine timing of fuel injectors, etc. To accomplish this, it uses a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you are experiencing issues with either one of these, the diagnostic scanner will display the codes that could trigger an engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate speed counter for your gearbox, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, or a misfire in the gear. It is likely that the sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. The good news is that they are very affordable and easily accessible particularly in the case of an Bosch model, which is what we have. Alternately, GM's version this component is an excellent choice.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a number of problems within your vehicle. It is a crucial part of your audi key fob not working's transmission, since it relays information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's crankshaft is rotating. If this sensor fails, it could affect the performance of the transmission and the rest of the car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is situated on the outside of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 via a grey wire. The ECU is then able to process this signal to regulate the flow of fuel, timig and boost as well as transmitting it to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for failure by examining the continuity between it and the tachometer. You can also check continuity between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between pin T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is the same across the audi a1 key fob 80-100-200-RS2 series, starting from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS An and 1995 RS2 Du, so you might find good ones in wrecking yards.
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